I’ll make a generalization and say that we all appreciate tomatoes in one form or another. A fun and versatile crop, tomatoes can be grown in the garden, in containers, hydroponically, or even in hanging baskets. There are determinate and indeterminate types of tomato plants. Indeterminate tomato plants have a sprawling tendency and need pruning and support to keep them tidy or off the ground. Determinate tomato plants grow more compact, in a bush shape.
| Tomatoes | Solanum lycopersicum |
| Season (FL) | Spring, Fall |
| Soil type | Well-draining and fertile; amended with organic material |
| Light | 6 to 8 hours |
| Water | Moist, not muddy |
| Mature plant size | Varies |
| Harvest in | 90-110 days |
Growing tomatoes in Florida
Florida can be tricky, with our short mild winters and hot muggy summers. Tomatoes are a warm weather crop and do best with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day. Tomatoes are versatile and can also be grown in containers by a very sunny window indoors. These are the best tomato varieties for Florida according to IFAS:
- ‘Better Boy’
- ‘Celebrity’
- ‘Amelia’
Recommended heirloom varieties for Florida:
- ‘Cherokee Purple’
- ‘Green Zebra’
- ‘Mortgage Lifter’
To grow tomatoes in the hotter months of the year, pick a heat-tolerant cultivar like ‘Heat Wave II’. Most cherry tomatoes will also set fruit in the heat, including the variety ‘Sweet 100’. And then there’s the Everglades tomato, a tiny but flavorful variety, sprawling and vigorous, drought and heat tolerant. If you have the space and seek quantity, this is your best Florida tomato.
When to grow tomatoes in Florida
Tomatoes can be tricky in the heat of the summer or at the risk of frost. Different varieties will thrive at different times of the year, and days to maturity will vary as well. Generally in Florida you can plant in February and September for best results. Stagger your harvest windows by sourcing tomatoes with different days to maturity
What you’ll need to start growing tomatoes
Seeds can be bought online from plenty of reputable sources, as well as in your local hardware stores or even on Etsy – a good option for local home-grown varieties. A trellis or cage is recommended to keep your plants upright. You’ll want high quality soil amended with organic material such as composted manure or peat moss. If planting in the garden bed, mulch, leaves or other organic materials are highly recommended.
How to plant tomatoes
With all the aforementioned materials in place, planting a tomato seed is pretty straightforward. Stick the seed a centimeter or so into the dirt, cover, water, and wait. If transplanting, plant the seedlings deeper into the ground than they were in the pot, so the dirt reaches higher up the stem. This will promote more root growth along the stem and thus a sturdier plant. Rock phosphate is a type of fertilizer high in phosphorus that will maximize fruit production after the plant has become established. Set a handful of rock phosphate in the hole when planting your seedlings. Tomato plants have the tendency to spread out, so leave two to three feet in between each, unless you plan on pruning them to grow vertically.
Get tomatoes plants off to a great start with:
- Full sun (8+ total hours per day)
- Well-draining soil amended with lots of organic material
- Deep planting to promote maximum root growth
- Rock phosphate to be taken up by roots when they establish
- Proper spacing (2 to 3 feet, or 18” if pruning)
Growing tomatoes in containers
Growing in containers is highly recommended for balconies and small spaces, or if you prefer the flexibility of moving your plants around. Prop the container next to a fence or trellis to give the plants upward space to grow. Otherwise, use a tomato cage or similar object of your choosing. Potting soil should be high quality with plenty of organic material. A most cost effective option would be your basic 5-gallon bucket with drainage holes in the bottom and a tomato cage in the soil.
Companion plantings will reduce pest problems
There are certain plants that I recommend to accompany your tomato plants, either in the same container or nearby in the garden. The idea is that these will either repel pests, or attract pests to them rather than to the tomato plants. Some ideal companion plants for tomatoes include:
- Basil – which repels tomato hornworm and just smells fabulous. Different basils will grow well in different seasons, and if you let them go to flower, the bees will love it!
- Peppermint – the strong smell repels various insects and rodents. Planting in a pot is ideal because these can also be invasive.
- Marigolds – these are toxic to nematodes which live in the soil and damage root systems.
- Members of the allium family, such as garlic, onions and chives. The odor repels certain pests.
- Parsley – this is a great companion for most garden plants. The flowers attract hoverflies which prey on other harmful insects. Additionally, butterflies are attracted to the flowers and will bring a whole host of pollinator benefits.
- Nasturtium – these add a pop of color to the garden and attract pests to themselves, rather than to the tomato plants.
Something you should not plant with tomatoes, are potatoes. They are susceptible to blight and other fungal diseases, and their roots system inhibits the growth of the tomato roots.
Tips on caring for your tomato plants
Give your tomato plants something to climb on so they’re not lying on the ground where they’re more susceptible to fungus and disease. This also promotes better photosynthesis as more leaves receive direct sunlight. It’s common to end up with large plants, lots of leaves and not a lot of tomatoes. Follow these tips to grow better tomato plants.
Watering
Tomatoes like constantly evenly moist soil. Watering from the ground is ideal – a drip system is best. This keeps water off the leaves, reducing the risk of fungal disease. If you must water from above, from a hose or sprinkler, do so in the morning to allow for sun drying. Tomatoes like even watering – if they go from drought to flood too quickly, the fruit will crack as it sucks in as much water as possible, too rapidly. Water deeply to encourage roots to go deep, where they can attain a consistent supply of water. Mulch around the plants to keep moisture in and keep soil pathogens from splashing up during rain and watering.
Feeding
The trick with tomato plants is to feed them nitrogen at the beginning to promote general growth. If you’re using a good compost, there should be enough nitrogen to do the trick. At a certain point, nitrogen becomes counterproductive, resulting in more leaf growth, rather than directing resources toward fruit production. Once your plants are established, or about a month into growth, a better option is to switch to phosphorus and calcium. This will promote fruit growth and help prevent disease. If the soil lacks calcium, or if they can’t uptake calcium in the soil due to inconsistent watering, roots can rot and your plants are done.
Pruning your tomato plants
Since tomato plants tend to sprawl, pruning is a necessity, especially in small spaces and especially in humid Florida summers. If left unpruned, these sprawling stems will reach the ground and put down new roots, eventually resulting in more of a vine. Another benefit of pruning is the additional airflow and sun exposure to the inner leaves, which reduces the risk of disease resulting from excess moisture. It’s always a good idea to prune from the bottom, eventually removing all leaves and branches a foot or two up from base. This way the plant isn’t exposed to pathogens and disease that originate in the soil.
Prune off side stems to keep energy going to fruit production and not to leaf growth. An optional recommendation is to pinch off the first bunch of flowers to keep energy going to the roots rather than to already start making fruit. Prune at least every two weeks to maintain the desired shape.
Determinate vs. indeterminate tomatoes
Indeterminate tomato plants have lateral branches, which you’ll want to prune off, because the fruit will grow on the main vertical stem. Determinate tomato plants will have more of a vertical-growing tendency, but you’ll still want to prune to maximize root growth and root production.
Whatever type you’re growing, they will need to be supported. Tomato cages from the garden center will work alright for a determinate plant. Indeterminate plants can grow 10’ high or more, depending on the growing season. Support options include sticks, bamboo poles, or strings tied to an overhead pole or trellis.
Combating pests & disease
The first rule to prevent disease is to check regularly for critters and irregularities. Remove pests by hand or by blasting with the hose before they get out of control. Tomato hornworms can decimate an entire plant in a day or two – keep an eye out and pick them off. They camouflage quite well but they’re detectable at night with a blacklight flashlight! Birds may pick at tomatoes because they’re after the water in the fruits. Keep a birdbath nearby to deter the birds and keep them satiated. Rats may be another unwanted guest – use traps rather than poison, so you don’t end up poisoning other critters further up the food chain. As mentioned previously, keep moisture levels in check to combat rust, mildew and rot. Pinching off those bottom leaves and branches will be helpful. I’ve even heard that Aspirin will help boost the plants’ immune system. Crush it into a spray bottle with water and spray it on the plants!
Suggested recipes for fresh home-grown tomatoes
- Caprese (another reason growing tomato & basil together is brilliant)
- Pasta with fresh garden tomato sauce
- Sundried tomatoes
Sources
https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/tomatoes.html
https://ediblesouthflorida.ediblecommunities.com/things-do/secrets-growing-tomatoes-successfully